In mid-July, cut back laterals to three leaves above a cluster of leaves at the base.For most forms of fruit tree, we recommend pruning it for the first few years after planting to ensure a balanced shape develops.

To reduce crowding, these should have some of the older branches cut back every year to a strong shoot. Some varieties of pear trees fruit at the ends of shoots, known as tip-bearing.Shorten others to leave the strongest with plenty of space for developing fruit. Start with those on the underside of branches as fruit there will struggle to ripen.

If the fruit-producing spurs are too crowded, remove some.Take out any growth that is heading towards the tree’s centre as it will reduce light and air, resulting in poor fruit ripening and a greater risk of disease.The side shoots, known as laterals, should be left over winter unless they are crossing another branch, which can lead to rubbing and disease.Cut them back to a good, outward-facing bud, making a slanted cut down and away from the bud to prevent rain pooling on it. Next, reduce the length of main branches by about a third.

First remove any weak, dead, dying or diseased wood.The aim is to allow light into the centre of your tree, and remove a little old wood each year in order to stimulate new growth. It’s always better to prune too little than too much. When pruning a standard pear tree, keep in mind the overall shape and err on the side of caution. Image: Pear 'Doyenné du Comice' from Thompson & Morgan Standard pear trees should be pruned in winter when they've dropped their leaves

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